italy 4 U

senior travel

2011-10-30T08:35:00.000-07:00

Our tours are for everyone! However, we know that travelers who have retired from their careers are more likely to have the time and resources to travel more extensively than other, younger folks. We estimate that more than 70% of our groups are comprised of travelers over the age of 50. If that might be you, please check out the link below for more travel tips.

http://seniortravel.about.com/od/tourgroups/a/Beyond-The-Tour-Group.htm

Cinque Terra hit by storms; devastated

2011-10-29T07:07:00.000-07:00

The beautiful western coast of northern Italy, in the region of Liguria, was hit by a devastating storm this week. It decimated two of its most beautiful little villages, including Vernazza. See news and pictures below:

http://www.ricksteves.com/news/travelnews/1111/cinque-terre-aftermath-slideshow.htm

"New" ruins!

2011-10-22T07:40:00.000-07:00

Italy in late September, early October might just be one of my favorite times of the year to visit. This past trip the weather decided to mimic summer and temperatures stayed in the mid-eighties, consistently. It was beautiful to witness the harvest season with some of it's specialty foods. The Italians eat only the foods that are in season so we had our fill of fried zucchini blossoms (with anchovy and a bit of mozzarella in the middle), fennel dishes and figs. Lots and lots of figs, as the trees were full of ripe ones, ready for the picking!

One of my favorite places to visit is the Farnese palace in Caprarola, north-east of Rome an hour. Look at this gorgeous fresco of the world map, dating to the 16th century.

And in Otricoli, which I bet you've never heard of before, we found some "new" ruins, that we'd not visited before. What a treat and we were the only visitors that day, wandering around the 25 plus acres.

This is the Italy we love; the one you rarely see when you visit the big cities and best known sites. Our next trip to the "less traveled" Italy is in April. Join us the the trip of your life!

Ciao,

Cheryl

Pack your bags!!!

2011-08-12T07:43:00.000-07:00

Hey, there is still room for you on our trip in September! Yes, YOU! Bring a friend and enjoy a week of divine, relaxing country living in Italy, the most beautiful of countries. I checked and there are still flights with seats unsold, so you have no excuse.

There was an unfortunate turn of events for a couple of our guests who were planning on joining us September 23-30, so they had to cancel, which is why there are a couple of spots open for you.

Just imagine, the best views from hill tops that go on forever, the best wines, freshly harvested and cooked dishes from little restaurants tucked away in tiny towns. And cultural, artistic guided tours to places most tourists have never heard of.

This is your trip, so drop a line and sign up!

See you soon,

Cheryl

September in Italy!

2011-06-29T07:45:00.000-07:00

One of the best times of the year to travel to Italy is in late September. Grapes are being harvested for new wines, figs are coming to ripeness, weather is mild and easy, not to hot, cold or wet.

The sights, sounds and smells of the harvest are everywhere and the afternoon colors as the sun starts to sink are breathtaking. Children have gone back to school and travelers have thinned out, too.

This is the time for relaxing, rejuvenating and restoring the soul. The colors of autumn are fresh and deep, readying folks for the bleakness of winter to come. Italian Excursion gives you a week of this lovely time, September 23-30. Find your bliss while we take care of all the details so you can just relax!

Relax and enjoy!

2011-06-11T18:29:00.000-07:00

Vacations should be relaxing and enjoyable, not stressful. How can you be sure that's what you will get? Planning ahead, of course, can assure that most of what you want is what you'll get. But sometimes, if you are planning your own vacation and have no first hand knowledge of the place you are going, your "pictures" of what you think you are getting don't match reality, once you arrive.

You may want to get some "expert" help from others who travel in the area frequently which you can find on many travel websites. Or you may just want to leave the planning to someone else to do. If you prefer the latter option then consider joining us for one of our small group tours, usually lasting a week. We do all the planning and will in fact, help you plan your extended stay for no extra charge.

Next trip is the last part of September and we still have a few open spots. Looking forward to seeing you in Italy!

Ciao

Cheryl

our "secret" villages!

2011-04-03T12:25:00.000-07:00

Everyone knows about Rome, Venice, Florence, Naples and the like. But we have explored other sides of Italy that most travelers have not seen. Check out our latest blog post from slowtraveltours.com and see what we mean. Join us on a trip and you can experience many "secret" villages!

http://slowtraveltours.com/blog/?p=3026

Ciao,
Cheryl

Italy in springtime!

2011-03-04T06:34:00.000-08:00

There is nothing more restful or invigorating than Italy in the springtime. Life's abundant nature is ripe and fresh there, especially in the countryside. The colors are so vibrant and undiluted you can almost feel yourself breathing them in and flushing out the chill of winter. Waking up to the sound of a hundred song birds never gets tiresome. It's easy to imagine the luscious fruit of the fig trees bursting with sweetness in the fall, when one notices the tiny green buds that pop out all over these magical trees. There are little buds peeking out of the scrawny, leafless vines of the grape vineyards, too, which conjures up images and scents of fall harvest when the grapes come to fullness.

At least once in your lifetime, you owe it to yourself to "be Italian" for a time and visit this amazing land of beauty, abundance and joy! Come travel with us. There are only a few spots left on one of our spring tours; May 6-13, 2011.

Ciao,
Cheryl

YES, you can!

2011-02-18T07:24:00.000-08:00

You can still join us for one of our Spring tours; April 18-25. Yes, there are still a few open spots on this trip, but they won't last long. Especially not if this cold spell continues in the US......Of course, our Australian friends have a better excuse to travel at this time: the rate of exchange for them is fantastic!

Italian Excursion is gearing up for a great travel year in the Italian countryside, 2011. People are back to traveling in Europe again. It's time to indulge the senses, relax and renew; make memorable visits to sites of ancient historical significance. We don't just offer photo ops but a chance to fill the spirit with new energy. Travel with friends, dine in small family owned trattoria's, tour boutique wineries and be education by the vintners themselves; meet the local Italians in small villages, where you will feel welcomed like family; take a cooking lesson; walk in the woods; picnic in the fields; discover hidden treasures in unknown museums.

Italian Excursion is your kind of small group tour for the "real" experience of Italian life.

Ciao,

Cheryl

Italy in the spring, 4 YOU!

2011-02-05T11:42:00.000-08:00

Too much snow this year? Stuck inside, cold, hungry for warmth and beauty??? If you are part of the 2/3 of the U.S. that are snowbound this winter, why not use your indoor time to plan a trip to Italy with us? Imagine the gorgeous Italian countryside just beginning to bloom and flourish in April and May. May brings the most brilliant red poppies to all the fields filled with grasses. Birds are more abundant in this country than anywhere I've ever been so their sounds fill the air, as fluffy clouds slowly float by making shadows across the hillsides.

This place will revivify your spirit and bring you back to yourself while you take colorful, memorable impressions home with you that last a lifetime. We have many dates for you to choose from. Email us with your questions or comments. Fill your heart with the multiple colors of this magical country.......

Ciao,
Cheryl

If not now, when?

2011-01-12T08:25:00.000-08:00

It's a new year! Time to begin making your travel plans. Where to, this year? How about Italy? Even if you've been to Italy already, this is a country with so many options for learning, enjoyment and satisfying one's curiosity that it's like going there anew, each visit. No two regions are alike so you can experience new tastes in wine and food, find new cultures buried deep in the earth or choose from a variety of geographies. Italian Excursion encourages travelers with a taste for Italy in all its forms to make repeat visits as you will always be surprised by the new splendors it offers! See you soon....

Ciao, tutti,

Cheryl

Ready to travel?

2010-12-21T08:11:00.000-08:00

Happy holidays, everyone! Weather you are braving the rain or snow, it's good to be inside where it's cozy and warm. As you sit around the tree, menorah or fire in your abode, enjoying family and friends, think about your travel plans for 2011. It's just around the corner so it's a good time to start planning. Are you hankering for some time in the countryside? A little wine tasting and education? New discoveries of ancient life? Dreaming of culinary delights? Time for "winding down" and rejuvination? All of these things are possible when you come along on one or our Italian excursions. We treat our guests like family, making a point of seeing to everyone's comfort and curiosity. Hope to hear from you soon!

Cheryl and friends at Italian Excursion

next tours for Spring

2010-12-04T11:37:00.000-08:00

Italian Excursion is planning our 2011 tours for spring and fall. There will be three in each season, all small groups for a countryside experience of Italy. Cooking classes, wine tours, museums, archeological sites and fantastic food. Register before January 15th and pay 2010 prices. Registration fee of 50% for spring tours, which can be paid by check or Paypal account.

Hope to see you soon,

Cheryl

Another wonderful trip to Italy

2010-11-21T22:36:00.000-08:00

Well, it took a awhile to report in but we're back from our latest excursion. Re-entry from a 3 week vacation is not always smooth! This trip was a little different as the tour group requested a more traditional approach to seeing Italy. We visited Venice, Florence, the Tuscan countryside and Rome. It was a "soup to nuts" tour, contrasting city living with country living. Great fun, some trials with weather (storm and rain in Venice), to much, too quickly and we still had a memorable adventure.

Italian Excursion is committed to creating an experience for travelers that is authentic and underscores Italian culture. We understand that a first time to Italy one wishes to see all the sites that have generated interest for centuries. So we suggest the first time tour be one that touches those places. And for those of you who just must return to this beautiful country, spend a week or so with us so we can show you the places less known, but equally exciting to explore.

Join us for a week in the countryside next April/May. If you register before December 31st, Italian Excursion will offer 2010 prices plus a special year-end discount when you mention our blog. We now take Paypal payments. And don't miss our other blog at slowtraveltours.com.

Ciao,

Getting ready for our October trip!

2010-09-01T19:58:00.000-07:00

Just six weeks away until Venice, Florence, Tuscan countryside and Rome become the backdrop for our next tour to Italy. Ten glorious days to explore the art, history, regional cultures, food and wines of these amazing places. This group tour was self generated by someone who loves traveling with new and old friends. He organized the people and we organized the day by day explorations. Great fun putting it all together and it will be great fun in the actual experience, so watch for our travel notes in November.

Do you have an alumni group, need professional CEU's, great friends you love to travel with or a family reunion you want to plan? Let us know and we can help you plan it with ease and simplicity, so all your group has to do is show up! Italy is the place to renew everything; friendships, families, self.

Be well. Be happy!

Ciao,

Cheryl

More Italy for you!

2010-08-17T07:45:00.000-07:00

Imagine, lush green rolling hills, dotted with bright red poppies mixed in with yellow and purple wildflowers! Blue, blue skies with puffy white clouds of varying shapes and sizes, skimming across the sky. You missed joining our October tours, so you'll have to wait until spring, now. So sorry, but both seasons are worth the visit, which is why I go twice annually to this magical place. There is always something new to see and experience in this ancient land of beauty and hidden treasure. All the regions have a special flavor of their own, so repeat visits yield layers of unexpected surprise.

Now is the time to plan for your spring trip to Italy, so start imagining yourself there, glass of wine in hand, plate of pasta before you, a palate of color surrounding you!

Ciao bella; see you in Italy!

Cheryl

Just some images for you to contemplate!

2010-08-08T13:17:00.000-07:00

Thinking about your fall vacation in Italy? Maybe these images will inspire you!

Italy and organic wine/www.italianexcursion.com

2010-07-23T08:09:00.000-07:00

Can organic wines be excellent? Good question. I say "yes", because one of the wineries I regularly spend time in is in the Umbrian region of Italy and has award winning wines. Sergio Mottura, winemaker, extraordinaire, has been mentored by Louis Latour, one of France's premier wine masters. Latour recognized the potential for Sergio's wines at a conference in the early '90's and gave him some pointers for producing even better wines. It had to do with the containers, French oak barrels, which improved some of the varieties beyond belief.

I love spending a week at the Mottura's 14 room boutique hotel, on the edge of their 300 hectres of vineyards, in Civitella d' Agliano, Orvieto. The hotel is a remodeled, 4 star eco-friendly, converted palace, over 800 years old in the center of the oldest part of town. All the meals served in the small dining room are also from organic, local products. I can't wait to get back there in October.
www.italianexcursion.com See you there?

solo travel?

2010-07-11T15:20:00.000-07:00

Yes, traveling in Italy on your own, can be a wonderful, enlightening experience. Recently, a young friend wrote to me asking if she should take a bus tour to Italy, for her special 10 day vacation in Europe. I told her to explore all of her options, so she researched all the many ways of traveling. Large bus tours, small group tours, medium sized guided tours. She finally decided on going solo, taking trains and buses and just sort of "winging it".....Italy is one of the easiest places to travel independently. I love guiding people around in the countryside, but if you've never been to the incredible cities of Venice, Rome, Milan, Florence, Naples, then it's important to start with those. You can take daytime guided tours in each city or just hop on and off a city bus to get oriented, then take your own walking tour. Guide books are wonderful for seeing just those sights you especially can't miss.

So, get busy and get traveling to some of the places you've been dreaming about! See you soon!

Ciao,

Cheryl

twice a year in Italy

2010-07-10T10:15:00.000-07:00

Twice a year, traveling to Italy, seems to be just the right sort of balance for me. I live a very hectic, busy and intense life in California the rest of the year and it seems that my 5 or 6 weeks in Italy gives me just the right sense of polarity between living too quickly and being more relaxed. I think I might find full time Italy a bit sluggish after such a fully packed, full paced routine. After all, being a American does brand me with certain characteristics, just as being from a Latin background would.

No complaints from me, having figured out a way to experience both kinds of lifestyles and having enjoyment for both. After all, if experience is our context for life, then variety of routine can only enhance that. I'd be interested in hearing how others manage routine and variety of experience, whether it involves travel or not. Buon Viaggio

Cheryl

another writer's opinion

2010-07-07T08:29:00.000-07:00

Below is an excerpt from an interview by travel writer David Farley, giving his viewpoint on the areas we travel most. He's right, there are strange allegiances just as he described, among small towns and village populations in Italy.

What appealed to you about living in the Lazio region?
What I liked about living in this “lost land,” as I call it (because it’s sandwiched between Rome and Tuscany), is that there’s a whole slew of really amazing things to see in northern Lazio: hill towns totally undiscovered by the tourism industry, great restaurants, walled cities, sulfur springs. It’s pretty fascinating.
Living in Rome and then Calcata as long as you did, was there anything that surprised you about Italy?
Italy is overly romanticized in America—and all over the world, actually. Because if you don’t travel to Italy, the only image you have is of some gregarious, mustachioed restaurateur named Luigi pontificating on the glories of Italia and his spaghetti and meatballs. But under the surface there are a lot of interesting things going on in Italy. There’s really intense tribalism, to the point that people in certain regions and cities won’t eat the cuisine from outside their region. They consider it foreign cuisine. Not necessary the younger generation, but if you’re in Rome and eating Ligurian cuisine for example, it’s like going out for ethnic food to some people in Italy. And also, it seems like almost every aspect of Italian society is politicized in some way. When I would go food shopping with someone in Calcata (we’d always have to drive to another village), we would always go to certain supermarkets because they were in agreement with the shopper’s political views. You went to a leftist supermarket or you went to a rightist supermarket. What was fascinating about it, though, is that American society is going in that direction to a greater degree now too.

Let's talk about "Slow Travel"

2010-07-05T11:57:00.000-07:00

What is Slow Travel? It's related to the The Slow Food movement which began in Italy a couple of decades ago, when fast food from America was beginning to invade Europe and other continents. The Italians feel strongly about anything that interrupts their slow pace of living. This might be said of most Latino cultures, but my familiarity is with Italy. As the Italians noticed fast food creeping into their culture, they made enormous protests which resulted in few such corporations making gains in that country. Likewise, travelers began to notice there was a much more satisfying way to travel than at a very fast pace, on a large bus filled with tourists.
Thus, Slow Travel was born. when independent traveler's began to spend longer and longer vacation time in one place, rather than changing locations daily. By spending more than a few days, maybe a week or more in a vacation rental, an apartment, casita or self -catering villa, traveler's can become familiar with their surroundings, get to know the local shopkeeps and their neighbors. Learning about a country's culture in this way gives the traveler an authentic experience of who the people are, their history and an entirely different way of life, in many instances, than what one is accustomed to. Forming relationships with the local people, lingering over a coffee in an outdoor cafe, experiencing the daily rhythm of a village or town makes a vacation so much more relaxing and memorable.
Traveling Slowly can mean many different things, though it points to a slower pace of activity, lingering over meals, spending time in the lost art of conversation, maybe it's just taking time to journal or sketch or hone some artistic skill that's been begging for attention. This is certainly a way of waking up the senses, getting a "sense of place" in whatever place you happen to be spending time. Italy is the perfect place to practice these lost skills. There is an abundance of natural beauty, places left untouched for centuries just begging for a listen or a look. There are people, friendly and open just waiting to engage with you in any sort of connection and communication. This is a most satisfying, enriching way to experience time, place, connection and relationships; slowly and with deliberate enjoyment!

October in Italy!

2010-07-02T08:32:00.000-07:00

What's so special about Italy in October? So many things to see and do at that time of year that it's one of my favorite months to visit that beautiful country. There are many festivals to commemorate the patron saints in each town; chestnuts are ripe and everywhere for the taking. You might see whole families out on a Sunday, in the countryside, picking up chestnuts to take home and prepare in a variety of scrumptious ways. Figs, too, are hanging from the trees, ripe and ready for eating. Ripened figs are like the fruit of the gods, believe me!

By now the grapes have been harvested and the new wines are fermenting so everything smells different, pungent and expectant, waiting for the next batch to mature. This is also the time that airfares and tourism decrease! It's such a feast for the senses, though, October, that you owe yourself this gift; so think about how you can join us for a time. You won't be disappointed........

Off to Italia for some Italian spring!

2010-05-01T08:02:00.000-07:00

It's time to take a break from the work of winter for renewal and regeneration. Nothing does that like a few weeks in the countryside of Italy. It's May day, today for many folks around the world and in Italy (it's called Labour Day), it's a time for closing the shops, resting and having yet another big meal with family and friends.

My friends in Italy tell me what a harsh winter they've had and to end it all there was that fiasco with the Icelandic volcano. Lucky for me that passed before my trip takes place but don't think I didn't have a few moments of angst over that! So, I will spend the next week getting together with my Italian friends and neighbors, exploring new sites and accommodations for future tours and enjoying myself.

There are two new tours added for the fall of 2010 because people are getting back to travel again. We still have some room on both so take a look; is photography your "thing" or music and entertainment?
Jim Karnic's http://www.fieldnotes.com/Phototours trip will focus on nature photography, while
Greg Tamlyn's http://www.gregtamblyn.com
will focus on just a plain old fashioned "good time".

Check your calender and decide which tour is for you!

Ciao, amice,

Cheryl

Slow, slow, slow in Italy

2010-03-18T15:28:00.000-07:00

Some years ago, the Italians, in rebellion against "fast food", created a movement called "slow food". If you're at all familiar with the Italian culture you know how they enjoy not only cooking for hours but the process of sitting down and eating for 2 or 3 hours at a time. They were appalled at the notion that people might want to grab a meal from a window and eat on their way somewhere, so they seriously formed a movement that has chapters all over the world now. And there are even festivals, conferences and conventions devoted to all possible concepts of slow food. Here is a site with one of the upcoming events: http://www.cittaslowinfestival.it/.

Because Italians take their food seriously and all that it involves, you will find few fast food restaurants except in cities where tourists might congregate. And you will rarely find Italians eating their meals in cars or walking around town. I find this a wonderful habit to adopt and encourage folks to think more about how they are eating their meals. It's healthier, too, since we know that if you eat on the run you often forget you've eaten, will overeat or just have poor digestion.

So, what's my point:? Take more time with your food! See what happens to your body and your relationships. Less fat, more love and friendship, who knows??? We've adopted the entire "slow" attitude and take our travel slowly, too. That's why we like to stay in one place for at least a week, plan sparingly and have flexibilty in our itineraries, in case we want to change something.

Don't forget, we have room for a couple more travelers on our May trip and also for our October Pilates trip. See the website, see the descriptions for the two tours. Ciao, tutti!

a presto,

Cheryl

Ready for the spring tour to Italy!

2010-03-13T13:21:00.000-08:00

Hey, we are getting ready for our May trip to Italy with a small group of travelers. You can still join us as there a few spaces open for registration. We will show you a most memorable time for the week you spend with us. And you can do it on a luxury budget because our week is spent in the country in Umbria, not in the cities. There will be wonderful, fresh Italian meals (and a cooking lesson), day trips to places few tourists ever visit in Italy. There are wine tastings at small local wineries planned; at least three and possibly more. We will see beautiful hill towns with views that are breathtaking. Be sure to bring your camera even if you aren't usually a great photographer. It's impossible to take a bad picture in these lovely places. Bring your bathing suit as there will be a pool at the small villa we are staying in. Ask about special discounts or future tours for group discounts. We love to travel in Italy and wouldn't miss the springtime..........
Ciao,

Cheryl

small group tours to Italy for 2010 at 2009 prices!

2009-12-02T22:27:00.000-08:00

What's in store for you traveling with us!!!?

2009-10-10T18:22:00.000-07:00

Why travel with us for your week in the Italian countryside? Here are just a few good reasons:

We travel SLOWLY...so you can truly enjoy your time with the Italian culture, people, food, wine.
We treat you like guests who would visit our home. We care about your comforts and requests.
We know the "real" Italy where there are no souvenirs, exaggerated prices, phony presentations.
We share the best experiences of Italy that we enjoy ourselves.
It matters to us that you have your expectations met for your vacation in Italy.
Authenticity is what you will remember most from your unforgettable italianexcursion with us!!!

Fall in the Italian countryside

2009-10-05T21:45:00.000-07:00

Hey, look at us! We are having the best time in Italy during harvest season. Can you imagine lush grapes hanging from the every vine in the vineyards; ripe figs ready for eating off the trees; tomatoes bursting with flavor and the most vivid red on earth; popcorn gelato? POPCORN GELATO??? Yes, we experienced all of this and much, much more. Check out the pix.........

May small group tour

2009-09-21T20:42:00.000-07:00

Ciao Tutti!

We have great news! There will be two week long small group tours in May of 2010. So, you can double your pleasure or just choose the one that is right for you. A week in Venice with travel writer and wine expert Shannon Essa. Oh did I mention that she is co author of Chow Venice!? This wonderful restaurant/bar guide for Venice will make your trip to Venice, with or without us, a total success. Shannon lived in Venice for a year and knows where the very best food and wine are hidden there.

Our tour to Venice will not look anything like a typical tourist venture into that wonderful, exciting city. There is no place on earth like Venice, a mysterious planet of its own. It tricks one into believing they are lost and can never be found and then, viola!, there you are again, just where you had planned to end up!

We will stay in a lovely palazzo in the city, have daily excursions in and around Venice, eat and drink the best of the local fare, explore places most travelers never find there.

Venice is only cliche if you don't know or understand her. Experience this fascinating city with someone who knows her inside and out.........

ciao-ciao,

Cheryl

More Italy!

2009-09-20T06:07:00.001-07:00

Ciao tutti! Just returned from the best time of year in Italy. Smack dab in the middle of grape harvest season. The grapes were lush and ripe and ready to be crushed. Everywhere we went you could smell the musty, sweetness of grapes either just before or after they were sent off to be crushed. Did you know for really great wine that the grapes must go from the vine to the crusher in just about five minutes?

My friend Sergio Mottura of Civitella d' Agliano makes some 400,000 bottles of award winning wine annually. Our small group tour went out into his fields to experience grape harvest, by hand. Amazing. Not only are his wines fantastic but they grapes are also organic. He doesn't like to stress this point as he says that most folks don't think great wines can also be organic. But they can and I can attest to that fact!

Another wonderful experience at Sergio's was one of our wine dinners in the elegant dining room of the hotel. When it came time for our main course, stuffed goose which they also raise, Sergio insisted we try it with both his best white, La Tour, and his lovely Pinot Noir (which is what is usually recommended with fowl). But, he said, it is important to experiment with the food and wine pairings as that is how we will truly know what our palate enjoys. I must say that they were both equally enjoyable with the goose, which was superb.

I have many enticing stories from this trip but will save them for other posts. Keep watching and keeping sipping wonderful wines.

More later.............

food in Italy

2009-07-15T22:33:00.000-07:00

Food in Italy. Slow food in Italy is really what we're talking about. What is Slow Food? The opposite of fast food? Sort of, but not entirely. Slow Food means food is grown and eaten locally, time is spent preparing it and time is spent enjoying it. Meals go on for hours, as does the preparation of the food. Sometimes, the preparation involves days of selection and thought beforehand.

There is always care in the choice of marketing, in the concept of combining flavors and in the tradition of joining the different ingredients. Some recipes are thousands of years old. Some are variations of ancient recipes. Ingredients such as olives olive oil and familiar herbs have been used for millenia. And what part does wine play in this dance of taste and art? Wine enhances the food in subtle ways. It's an exciting game to play trying to match tastes with food and drink.

Come to Italy with us and experience this phenomenon of travel, taste, comfort and beauty. 2 spots left for the September trip. A trip to Venice in Spring and one to Orvieto area........An experience you won't forget!

what's new in Italy?

2009-07-12T22:06:00.000-07:00

There is so much in Italy that is old, I forget what's new. Just got reminded today of a wonderful memory I had many years ago. After a delicious dinner in a little restaurant in Lucca, Tio Leo's, sitting outside, a balmy October evening, the waiter came to remove my empty dinner dishes. "Now," he said, "you must have the best dolce (sweet or dessert)." His suggestion was lemon sage sorbet. Yuck, it sounded at odds with itself. But I let him bring it and OMG! It was lemon sorbet with bits of fresh sage and it was not just refreshing but FANTASTIC.

Recently, I heard of another version: peach sorbet with basil. Apparently, just as wonderful. Ahhhhh, new versions of complimentary tastes. So Italian.......

ciao,

Cheryl

The Tarot Garden

2009-06-27T08:11:00.000-07:00

Artist Nikki de Sainte Phalle has a world class reputation for her "gaudi-esque" sculptures. Balboa Park in San Diego as well as the city of Escondido boast several of her pieces, which are phenomenal examples of the use of mosaics in contemporary art.

Many are unaware that she also had a sculpture garden in Italy, in the Grossetto area, that represents her interpretation of the Tarot in oversized, multi-colored mosaic statuary. One of the pieces was so large that she and her husband lived in it for about 7 years and it is complete with kitchen, bathroom, loft bedroom, most of which are covered with mosaic mirror pieces. One way to study the "fractured Self" I guess.

On my last trip in May I make a pilgrimage to the ancient Mosaics in Ravenna, which were magnificent. The town itself is lovely, with wide streets where everyone rides their bikes to get around and no cars are allowed in the center of the city.

In an interesting, opposing juxtaposition (redundant)?, I went to the other side of the country to visit the Tarot Garden. All in all a good look at the spectrum that mosaic art has to offer. Traveling in Italy in this "slow" way, so as to make it a study, makes it far more dimensional than hopping on and off a bus for two weeks.

Check out our slow travel, small group tours for Sept '09, May '10 (Venice or Orvieto), Oct '10 (Piedmonte).......we'll be tasting the art of each region, along with the wines and food that vary from place to place. I think you will be pleased with the subject matter and the prices.

Ciao,
Cheryl

Wine Camp and Venice

2009-06-14T03:36:00.000-07:00

We're adding new themes and places to visit on our Italian excursions. Next spring look for our tour of Venice with Shannon Essa of Chow Venice! fame. No one knows Venice and its many secrets like Shannon.

And you haven't been to camp until you've been to "sideways wine camp" in Italy. Visit a winery a day in the Umbria, Tuscany and Lazio regions. Along with the different regional wines, different regional foods are paired. Varieties of grapes you may never have encountered.

Both tours also include the magnificent art and historical sites that keep us coming back for more. Both tours are designed to give travelers a true taste of slow travel in Italy.

Hope to see you there.
Ciao,
Cheryl

It's a new day!

2009-04-24T15:34:00.000-07:00

Salve, tutti! It seems the travelers are beginning to travel again. Our September trip to Italy is almost full and the excitement of my upcoming trip in May has me very Spring feverish! There are a couple of spaces left for the September trip if anyone is interested. Airfare is at an unheard low even from the west coast of the US. Now is the time to start traveling again.

I've got lots of exciting things to do already set up and am leaving in just 10 days. I'll be going to check on my property in Bagnoregio; check out some new villas for future stays in the Todi area; meeting with new chefs for cooking classes. And apparently there is horse back riding in the countryside outside of Civita Castellana.

The best part of returning to Italy again and again is finding the new places and activities that I was unaware of previously. It adds to our already long list of places to see "off the beaten track." And don't forget to check out the slowtraveltours.com website. We have a variety of interesting small group tours that are not limited to Italy.

So, ciao for now. Hope to see you in Italy!
Cheryl

Recession discounts for Italy travel

2009-02-07T20:57:00.001-08:00

It looks as though we are deep into our U.S./Global recession and it will take some maneuvering to get out of it. From what I hear the economists say, we have to do a couple of basic things, which are contradictory to say the least: SPEND and SAVE!

So, how do we do that? Obviously, those who have lost jobs will have to do the least spending. And I think those of us who are still working and have some security around our work or retirement need to do our part in the process. In order to support our friends and neighbors who need the economy moving so they can get back to work we must carry on with life as usual. We might have to "pare it down" a bit but we can't stop doing all of the things we are used to doing that incur expense. After all, life is short. If we don't travel while we can, especially while we are in good health, then we may miss out later. And we want to be good friends and neighbors, don't we?

Do I sound like I'm trying to whip up some enthusiasm for a trip to Italy? That's exactly what I'm doing. I don't want to miss my annual Spring trip to Italy and that means I need your help! If you join me for one of my week long tours in the countryside I can share my knowledge and love of Italy with you, your family or friends AND we will be boosting the Global economy, which needs so much support right now.

Take a look at some of the airfares. They are the lowest they've been in years. I'm passing along the savings from my vendors in Italy who are discounting their services, too. Ask me what kind of a discount you qualify for and I bet you'll be surprised by the answer. I'm serious about getting to Italy this Spring so contact me about the May tour. Italianexcursion small group tours are fun, enlightening, relaxed and an unforgettable way to experience Italy.

I look forward to getting your emails and phone calls........
aparnaca@gmail.com or 760 753 5028

Ciao,

Cheryl

busy, so busy!

2009-01-30T19:46:00.000-08:00

Hey, it's been too long since I last posted but I've been having a great time throughout the holidays, my birthday and the new presidency that was ushered in this month. I can't believe it's been a month since I last posted so I guess I'd better catch up!

I've added some new dates/tours to the website and am excited about them. It seemed best to move the Pilates trip to the Fall so we've done that. I'm really looking forward to traveling to the Piemonte region, with the villa that has the Pilates studio and cooking classes.

Noticing that folks are still sort of "holding their breath" about spending money on travel, I'm offering global recession discounts for groups of a certain number. Check with me about those if you're interested in traveling this Spring. Not sure we'll have to keep those discounts through the Fall if the economy moves ahead any. We already try to be as budget minded as possible so people can continue to travel and enjoy Italy. I've noticed there are incredible discounts in Italy for lodging and the like.

So, now is probably a good time to travel there. The dollar is holding its own but as I've mentioned before if you travel in certain areas of Italy, staying out of the big cities mostly, you'll find some incredible deals.......And I found some fabulous, low cost airline tickets for Spring from the West Coast right into Florence! I prefer flying into the smaller airports when I can as Rome airport can sometimes be a zoo to navigate if it's busy.

Just received a couple of bottles of this year's first pressed olive oil from a friend in southern Tuscany. WOW it was fantastic! when it's just newly pressed it has a real peppery bite to it and I just love it!!! We are considering whether or not we want to sell it here in the US. Will let you know what we decide......

So, ciao for now. More later,

Cheryl

Pilates in Italy!

2008-12-21T07:53:00.000-08:00

I'm a great fan of Pilates and use it as my main source of exercise. It fits nicely with the yoga I've been doing for the last few decades. And so, when a friend told me about a week she spent near Torino with a group doing Pilates and cooking, I had to explore for myself. What I discovered was a wonderful villa in the countryside of Piemonte, a northern region of Italy, near the borders of France and Switzerland, that is fully equipped with a Pilates studio, organic vineyards and gardens and an on site Italian chef!

My own Pilates instructor, Natalie Walker (http://www.ehfpilates.com/ehfpilatesexcurs.html) was very excited to hear about this place so we decided to gather a group and go! The trip is set for late April and has space for only 9 guests. There are wonderful places to visit within a stone's throw of the villa and we're bringing our own Pilates expert. The best of both worlds is truly when you can eat fabulous Italian food, drink the best Italian wines (organic, nonetheless) and not worry about gaining weight as there will be Pilates classes daily! And let's not forget the bike rides into town, long walks in the countryside, day trips into Asti, Alba and Torino, museums, shopping, local colors and flavors... There are still a few spots left and maybe the best part is the cost which includes, lodging, ground transportation, 5 cooking classes, 5 Pilates classes, all meals, airfare if traveling with the group, etc. ($3,550)!!!

Hope to see you there! Happy New year, all!

Ciao,

Cheryl

Yes, you can!

2008-10-29T11:33:00.000-07:00

I know travelers are freaking out about the state of the economy and thinking about canceling their planned trips but I say, KEEP TRAVELING. My last trip in Sept/Oct was one of the most inexpensive trips I've ever taken and did not feel deprived. It was relaxing and fun, less crowded and prices were reduced from last Spring's trip.

There are many bargains if you look for them, especially renting vacation homes or at hotels. I stayed two weeks in a small hill town called Todi and attended the language school there. They gave me a discounted price for the lessons which also included my own apartment, amounting to about $60 US per day. My biggest expense was a car rental and I probably could have done without that.

Because I had an apartment equipped with full kitchen, I did some cooking, which I enjoy, and didn't eat out all of the time. Found a fabulous pizza place and one night 2 of my friends and I ate pizza, salad (with everything in it), dessert and wine for less than $20 US! And the pizza was not just ordinary; asparagus, truffle and veggie............scrumptious.

I did use FF miles which saved me flight costs but after going through my receipts, etc., found that I'd spend just under $1000 per week. That is vacation money well spent. And while I was there the dollar got much stronger, which certainly helped.

So, don't be discouraged and don't stay home. This was one of my best, most relaxing trips. Made new friends, saw old ones, found some new, exciting places to go back and visit. Can't wait for my Spring trip. More later,

ciao,

Cheryl

Italy in its harvest season

2008-10-20T07:11:00.000-07:00

This will be just a teaser to whet your whistle and give you a taste for the most beautiful (in my opinion) season that Italy bestows upon us. Just returned a few days ago, from three weeks in Umbria and Lazio. The colors, the scents, the lighting that signifies the harvest season in Italy is so magnificent that there is little to say except............GO THERE!!!

I will elaborate on my stay in the next post, just wanted to get you ready...Even in these unstable financial times, I was able to pinch pennies while enjoying myself to the fullest. It was an elegant trip with new wines, foods, towns and people that just continue to inspire my travels there.

More to come.............ciao, Bella!

Cheryl

Seattle is not Italy

2008-08-30T08:10:00.000-07:00

I'm always interested in traveling to other places of interest besides Italy so this year our family vacation was to the San Juan Islands, off the coast of Washington, USA. Specifically, Orcas Island. This was my first trip to that area and it is every bit as lush, beautiful and green as I'd expected it to be. August is supposed to be a very good summery month to vacation there. It rained just one or two days and our actual stay in Seattle was an over the top heatwave. We were glad to be out on the island where the ocean breeze cooled things down, even if it was cooler than we'd expected.

We rented a big four bedroom house, on a good sized piece of property overlooking one of the island's many sounds. It was well equipped but being older had it's quirks. The best part of it was the large kitchen where we made pies and cobblers from the abundance of ripe blackberries we found everywhere we went. I prefer to stay in homes when I'm in a place for a week or more as it gives me the experience of really being part of the area and not just an onlooker. It's also less expensive as we can cook meals in rather than always dining out. Not to mention that hotels are typically more expensive on average for a nightly rate.

One thing I noticed right away was the lack of travelers. We were told that we'd need to wait for the ferry to the island a good two hours ahead of scheduled departure as it was the height of the season, but never waited more than 30 or 40 minutes. And the weekends when we went into the little village of Eastsound there just were no crowds, no waiting at the restaurants and few shoppers. There were many "for sale" signs on shops, properties and homes indicating that the area is economically depressed but until I read in a local paper that Seattle has one of the highest inflation rates in the country, I wasn't aware just how bad they had been hit in this economic downturn.

So, in conclusion, it was a lovely vacation for relaxing and having a real "time out" from day to day life but I must say that I didn't experience the affinity for the area that I have for Italy. Of course, historically and culturally it lacks the antiquity of Italy, which I love, so I'm sure that played a part. But I must say that I probably don't need to visit there again for a long time, if at all.

Happy travels.
Ciao, tutti,

Cheryl

Italy:Let's Go!!!

2008-08-09T07:24:00.000-07:00

Well, I've flipped flopped so much about taking my annual Fall trip to Italy that I feel like a real politicain now. The cost of travel seemed so ridiculous for a time that I seriously considered staying home this year instead of experiencing the incredible harvest season of Italy's countryside.

But as I thought about my early morning walks in the country, reaching up to pick a ripe fig or two for breakfast, listening to the sounds of farm animals, birds getting busy for the day, the mists lifting from a valley here or there, my heart just couldn't reconcile missing the experience. And once the decision was made it seemed things calmed down a bit in the economic world. There are some fairly decent airfares now, lots of good sales on hotel rooms and the dollar is making a stand, the first in a long while, against the euro. Not a big one, mind you, but there may be some hope after all, of equalization.

So, I've vowed to do a lot of photography this trip and am spending time in a language intensive, to hone my Italian language skills. One of these days there will be a blog post in Italian! Believe it!

Ciao for now. More musings later,

Cheryl

Taking the summer off!

2008-07-26T16:37:00.001-07:00

Well, it's been awhile since I've posted. Life has been lazy, full, busy, the usual. But living by the beach means I don't spend much time indoors at this time of year so haven't taken time to write much. I was all set to cancel the Fall tour this year as it seems Americans are staying home these days, what with the gas prices and falling dollar.

Then, all of a sudden, I've gotten some last minute inquiries and requests for the Fall tour. What's that all about? The dollar still sucks against the euro and gas prices have only dropped a few cents. Folks are still losing their homes and their jobs. But, ciao baby, Italy still calls! All my neighbors are buying scooters and vespas to ride to work....

My friend, the travel agent in Florence, wrote to tell me that there are many "sales" or promos in the hotel industry in all the big cities this summer. And I've seen some great airfares, too, if you keep checking daily and grab them when you see them.

So, see you soon, maybe..........Ciao tutti,

Cheryl

My heart is calling me......

2008-06-15T13:21:00.000-07:00

Generally, I travel to Italy for several weeks, two to three times a year. Partly, because I lead small group tours for one of those weeks but mostly because I NEED to be there! There is some question about the upcoming tour in October and I have been thinking about either going somewhere else for a change or not going until the Spring again.

HOW UNTHINKABLE! How could I possibly miss the season that has the most beautiful afternoon light? The smell of the newly harvested crops? The fragrance of the fermenting grapes harvest? What about my morning walks, picking lush, ripe figs for my breakfast? How can a go an entire year without gazing on the silver tipped olive trees laden with nearly ripened olives? And the beautiful rich browns, reds, almost black fields of dirt, newly stripped of their bounty? My eyes can't imagine missing that special Italian palate, no......

I live the rest of the year by the ocean in a land that is actually desert and artificially planted so the greens and shades of brown are pale in comparison to Italy's. It's inconceivable that my body, down to its last cell would be able to miss being nourished by the color of Italy.

I guess I'll just have to go as planned.............

ciao, Tutti
Cheryl

Top 10 reasons for going to Italy!

2008-06-02T11:18:00.000-07:00

When I made my first trip to Italy I was prepared to be part of a cliche. But when I got there and had the experience of Bella Paese, all that changed. Nothing cliche about it!!! Which is why I created small group tours to my favorite region near Orvieto. At the risk of creating more tourism in that area here are 10 good reasons, no great reasons to visit this beautiful country:

1) The stunning landscapes, which have a different character in each region.
2) The magnificent cuisine, which is not just tasty but fresh and healthy.
3) The warmth of the Italian people; their helpful, willing attitudes toward
visitors.
4) The rich, layered cultural history that gives western civilation a foundation.
5) Influential, powerful art dating back millenia.
6) The many shopping opportunities.
7) Brilliant wines from every region, reflecting the mastery of artful winemaking.
8) Romance, romance, romance!
9) A way of life that has been lost to most western civilations: SLOW living
10) A place of renewal and rejunenation that replicates the best spas in the world.

Feel free to add your own reasons for traveling to this special country........

ciao,

Cheryl

Italian weather or is it really about olive oil

2008-05-29T19:36:00.000-07:00

Travelers are always worried about the weather. Is it going to be picture perfect or is it going to rain, hail, snow and be cold? I've been to Italy when it's picture perfect, cold as hell, hailed (in June), rained enough to soak through clothing, too hot to stand.

And guess what? It doesn't matter, it's still Italy, a beautiful, exciting, relaxing, enchanting place to hang out. Besides, if you can't control something then it's much easier to just enjoy whatever shows up.

Yet, still, I always hear people ask, either before or after deciding when they're traveling, how the weather is going to be when they are there. Hah! These days it can't be predicted accurately. Everything has changed too much because of global warming (yes, Virginia, there really is something called global warming).

Some of my friends in Italy who farm tell how in the last couple of years the season comes either one month too early (which hasn't happened since they can remember) or one month too late. That causes great problems for farmers and vintners. They just make the best of it. If there is too much rain or not enough, it might ruin the grapes or the olive crop. No water, no olives, not much oil. Now that can be a problem, especially for someone like me who is addicted to olive oil. Okay, I admit it......I am an olive oil addict, can't go a day without it. And not just any olive oil, either.

Not the rancid stuff they try to sell us here in the US, oh no, not for me. I must have the freshest pressed, most virgin, unfiltered olive oil I can find. I bring many bottles of it home in my suitcase. When the rules for liquids weren't so tight I used to bring 5 gallon tins of it home on the plane with me. The Italian security that checked us thru at the airport leaving Italy had to check it to make sure it wasn't contraband liquid and they would come back after tasting it, wink at me saying, "bellisimo olio" or other such praise for the quality.

I have 50 olive trees on my little property in Italy. Sometimes they produce and sometimes there isn't enough water. Those years I have to buy from my neighbors who have more trees. I found a neighbor who is bottling oils that are flavored with different herbs or spices. Oh yum! I love the picante one with peppers. And the rosemary is quite nice, too.

Ahhhh. The best olive oil. Another subject for another time. How did I get from weather to olive oil? See, it's that addiction thing. I wonder if there's a 12 step out there I should join. Maybe later. Sorry, can't finish blogging just now. I must go dip some bread in oil. mmmm and then maybe a little glass of wine........and that IS another story for later.

Ciao tutti,

Cheryl

The dollar sucks! Can we still go to Italy?

2008-05-24T11:20:00.000-07:00

I know everyone is freaking out about the rising gas and food prices. Even those who don't need to maintain a tight budget are re-thinking how to spend their money. And of course, that affects our travel plans. What's an Italy lover to do???

Well, TRAVEL to Italy, I say. Life can't stop; it's much too short. How do we know when things will change? Maybe they won't, so let's just adjust. Rather than use the term "budget travel" let's call it creative travel. Here are a few tips for traveling in a manner that costs less than we might have spent 5 years ago.

1) Travel off season when prices are lower for airline tickets and lodging.

2) Use frequent flier miles for airline tickets when possible.

3) Travel with a small group of friends or family, rent a house and share the expense.

4) Renting a house in Italy with a small group will allow you to shop locally and cook more of your meals, thus saving on restaurant bills.

5) Also, if you have a group you can split the cost of car/van rentals, a big vacation expense in Italy.

6) Staying in the countryside, rather than in the big cities will save considerably on lodging and food costs.

7) If you really want to be careful with expenses, do what one of my friends does and rent out your house as a vacation rental, when you are away in Italy.

8) NO SHOPPING!

9) When dining out drink the house wines rather than ordering specialty bottles. The local wines are usually quite nice.

10) Shop at the local market for picnic items and have lots of picnics when out for a day trip.

11) Shorten the length of your stay if that is feasible.

So, be creative and think about what other ways you can keep your dollars in your pocket but still have a great Italian vacation. I just gave you a few ideas, now it's your turn. And please share your suggestions with us in a "comment"........

Have a great vacation!!!

Ciao, tutti,

Cheryl

Have you ever seen Bomarzo?

2008-05-20T12:02:00.000-07:00

Bomarzo, also called the Monster Park in honor of the figures that inhabit the park, was created over 500 years ago by a local nobleman as a tribute to his wife, whom he adored. Artisans were brought to the site to sculpt large figures out of the enormous boulders in the area. The result is a sculpture park or estate that is utterly fascinating. Most of the pieces represent ancient mythological figures that are easily recognizable but seem so out of place for the time they were created. The Pagan atmosphere is such an odd juxtaposition of the papal art that was produced in that period.

Nonetheless, it is a lovely place to enjoy quiet, woods, walking and sprawling lawns. It was probably created as amusement for the owner's friends because some of the creations are very whimsical. There is a two story structure that is built at odd angles and when you go inside the rooms the tilt of the floor makes you very dizzy. There are benches and pools where it is easy to imagine gatherings and parties taking place.

On one of our tours with a small group we decided to explore the village of Bomarzo that stands high up over the park itself. It's a small, sleepy hilltop village and the climb to the historic center is a bit of a challenge. Driving is not encouraged except for the residents at the top. We discovered that we were the only tourists there to enjoy the phenomenal views that swept away on all fronts, as far as we could see. The wind whipped at us and all around us forcing us to walk into the center. I've been there several times since and have yet to see anyone but the locals who live there.

Walking into the center there is a small piazza with a lovely church, also empty. But the most exciting surprise was the palazzo that sits at the top, empty. There are faded fresci on the walls, carved ceilings, views from the recently windowed terraces that are a photographer's dream. The floors have some of the original stonework as do some of the giant fireplaces. Wide stone staircases lead to other floors. This is a lovely hidden treasure, especially if palaces and castles are your thing.

ciao, Tutti
Cheryl
www.italianexcursion.com

Getting there: it's a process!

2008-05-17T18:02:00.000-07:00

Some food, lots of wine, a bit of water and some friends. Where did they all go? Oh well, it looks like I'm having a good time anyway......One of my favorite places to end up in Italy is here, at La Tana d'Istrice, organic winery/small 4 star hotel.
The couple who run it, Sergio and Alessandra Mottura are elegant, gracious hosts, passionate about good food and their fine wines.

By now, I believe I've made just about 40 trips to Italy, specifically the area where Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio meet. I have a small property there and probably SOME DAY, my casita will be finished. But I am not in a hurry. After all, it's Italy and I get to be there whether the house is done or not. And I enjoy the whole process of getting there, being there, waiting for things to happen (or not) and then returning to do it all over again.

When I fly into Rome, which is one of the easiest ways for me to get to my final destination, I grab my bag from the overhead, heft my carry-on over my shoulder, clear customs and head for the exit. On the way over I carry all my luggage on board with me as it's been lost for as long as five days and I am not keen on going thru that again. Returning I will check my rolling suitcase.

There's a commuter train, the Leonardo Express, from the airport into the main rail station in Rome, 30 minutes. Then, whatever time I've arrived, I check for the trains to Orvieto, get a ticket out of the self serve machine and wait until it departs. The Rome train station is alway very busy. It's important to be alert as this is where the best pick pockets and thieves hang out. I tell my small group tour guests, very early after registering to join me, that they must not bring anything on the trip they are unwilling to lose. And that when they are crowded places or in the big cities to wear a money belt under their clothing with their credit cards, i.d., money, air tix, passports, etc. No purses for women.

Guests on my last trip in April did great until their last day. They relaxed a bit when they got to the train depot, used a purse instead of a money belt and lost cards, money and jewelry. And, of course, it leaves a "bad taste" in one's mouth when things like that happen. But really, it's very preventable....I follow my own instructions and, knock wood, haven't been robbed. (hope I didn't just jinx myself)!!!

So, I will continue more about getting there, later. Now, I need to have a nice glass of red wine and a little nibble.......

ciao tutti,
Cheryl

Lake Bolsena

2008-05-14T17:52:00.000-07:00

In northern Lazio there is an amazing, enormous volcanic lake called Bolsena. It's so large it supports 8 towns around its perimeter. The largest one called Bolsena, of course, and where the original lord and master built a fort. The fort is now a museum with very good information about the geography and geology of the region. The lake at Bolsena is considered to be the largest, cleanest volcanic lake of all Italy. I'm sure someone from some other region will argue that point but I don't care as I choose to believe it!

There's also a great story of the young St. Catherine who came from the village of Bolsena. She's now buried on one of the lakes islands and visitors can take a boat trip to see the castle and gardens on that little island. The main church in town is also dedicated to St. C. It's a hodge podge of different architecture as it was built for many, many years through many different periods. There is an interesting grotto and a couple of nice paintings so we always try to visit when we take our tours.

The historic center of Bolsena itself is quite precious. A pristine neighborhood of about 2 square blocks set high up on the hill next to the old fort. The streets are too narrow for vehicles, so it's a wonderful walking place with a barber shop, pizza place, small restaurant and a great deli. We had the best panini from there for a picnic one trip. The views are fantastic from the top so cameras are a must.......

Lot's of Italians and German travelers go to the lake to vacation and camp. There are hidden campgrounds around the lake and a couple of nice hotel/resorts for those not interested in camping. And in the neighboring countryside you'll find villas here and there, also hidden among the flora, if that's your lodging of choice.

Another reason for Italian travels

2008-05-13T19:23:00.000-07:00

I mustn't forget Alessandra and her family, while I am talking about food and friends. One of the most wonderful sites in this area is the "dying city", Civita d'Bagnoregio, which is the mother of the town of just plain, Bagnoregio. The former is close to 4,000 years old, from Etruscan and maybe it is thought, earlier people. The latter is just around 1,000 years old.

The name for this city indicates that the tuffa or type of dirt is built on, is porous and crumbling and the city is eroding at a rapid rate. Just two winters ago there was a landslide that caused the town government to debate restoring the hilltop town or not. Because the only way to reach it is by a concrete footbridge, which was only erected a few decades ago, there are just about a dozen people living there, with a few recently restored homes for vacation rentals.

Alessandra's family is one of the few that are still there and they run one of two small cantina's there for the few tourists that visit. (The city voted to restore the crumbling earth to encourage more tourism). I met Alessandra years ago when I first started visiting Civita. She was just engaged to a Roman policeman at that time and she was a student of architecture. She worked in the cantina with the family on weekends and studied in Rome during the week.

The cantina is located in the old olive mill that was part of the village some 600 years ago, in a cave, and little has been changed about it. The mill where the donkey walked round and round to grind the olives is still intact. Many of the tools used to process the oil are still on display. The bruschetta and homemade sausage that is served with the local wine is cooked over a wood fire in the ancient fireplace. It's an experience of food like no other. Nothing fancy, small menu that doesn't change, wine the family produces which is very "young", and terrific soup on Sundays. The bruschetta can sometimes have too much oil, but the ambiance makes up for any culinary mistakes.

Now, year after year, when I visit them, I watch how her little family has grown. She married her policeman from Rome and they work full time in the cantina, then she was pregnant with the first son and I got to play with him after he was born as she brought him to work at the cantina. There was a second pregnancy, with a second son, when I returned a couple of years later. Each time I walk through the door Alessandra rushes over to greet me with a big hug and a kiss on each cheek, all the while talking a mile a minute, with lots of questions about me and stories about her family.

We sit, we talk and catch up. I have my wine and bruschetta. If it's a Sunday and the weather permits, I am treated to a bowl of their wheat berry soup.

Just another reason this Italian community is so special and why I keep returning to this beautiful, serene spot. I'm always somewhat ambivalent to share this place with others as I don't want to see it become another "hot" spot for tourism. But then, it's just so special, I can't keep quiet about, either. What would you do?

Ciao,
Cheryl

Another Italian friend

2008-05-12T08:18:00.000-07:00

Continuing the them of friends in Italy, I've included someone I've known since I first started visiting the area in 1998, but just discovered his hidden talents when I started bringing the small group tours to town. He invited me to a small gathering to do some wine and food tasting one year and it was such an incredible experience for everyone that now we schedule one of these evenings as often as possible.

Mauro, the owner the best bar in town, which is one of the central meeting places of Bagnoregio, is a wonderful, interesting man. I learned only a few years ago what an interesting and talented person he really is. I thought he was just the owner of the best bar for a long time, a man with a sweet wife and seven children, all who worked in the family businesses. Then, I learned he was also a sommelier when he invited me and some friends to a wine tasting. His passion for wine was evident in the presentation of the wines. And it was so much fun for me because it was all done in Italian so I had to use my sense of smell and taste along with my poor language skills. Of course, the more wine I drank the better I understood what he was saying!

That night I also learned that he was a classically trained musician as were all of his children and that they had an afro-cuban band that played local gigs. I was given one of their CDs and was pleasantly surprised to find out how well they actually played.

I will take the group to Mauro's "back room" at the bar for an evening of wine pairing and a dinner prepared by his lovely wife, Cesarena, if our group is spending time in the Umbria/Tuscany area. It's some of the best food in all of Italy, always fresh and seasonally correct. If fava beans are in season then we have those or some dish including them and it's always a fantastic new experience for the travelers. If it's the season for asparagus then that is one of the dishes. It's what I love most about Italian cooking; eating fresh, local food that is only eaten when it is harvested.

So, if you plan on visiting Bagnoregio, let me know. I'll be sure to have Mauro standing by in the back room to do a wine tasting. He is an expert on wines from all over Italy. Ask him to explain the different "taste" spots on the tongue to enhance your wine knowledge. It's very entertaining in a mix of languages!

And don't forget to tell him Cheryl from San Diego sent you!
Ciao,
Cheryl

more friends in Italy

2008-05-11T13:32:00.000-07:00

In order to provide the best accommodations, comfort and guided experiences for my small groups tours, I need to know the local folks in the towns we visit. Most of my new friends are in Bagnoregio, Orvieto and Civitella d'Agliano.

Marcella works in the supermercado, in Bagnoregio, six days a week and on Sundays she cooks a large meal for her family and neighbors. This is in addition to keeping up on the rentals as she is the only English speaker in the family so she has to manage that aspect of the business. If I go into the market and see her, she will immediately stop her work to come and have a chat with me. She talks to me in Italian to help me learn and is very patient with me. Her kindness extends to others, as I've seen her with her neighbors, customers, employees. She's always ready with a smile and a good word.

Once when I needed a place to stay Marcella let me rent her lovely apartment in the historic center of Bagnoregio for just a few days at a modest cost. Most owners won't rent for less than a week and when I asked if just the few days would be OK, she said "of course, you are my friend. Whatever you need, always you must just ask me." And if she is having a festa while I am in town, I am included. Of course, not being Italian I will always be somewhat of an "outsider" but if one shows interest in making friends with the people in the little towns and villages they are very happy to reciprocate, as I have found.
Ciao-ciao,
Cheryl

My Italian community

2008-05-11T09:24:00.000-07:00

It's been more than twelve years since I first started vacationing in Italy. What was once an adventure in travel for me has become so much more. The little village of Bagnoregio, outside Orvieto in the tri-corner of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio, has become a second home for me. I now make time to go there three times a year for a variety of reasons.

I used to say it was just a lovely respite from my hectic life in southern California. As a social worker, with an intense work life, respite is important to my sanity. But this little country destination, a farmer's paradise, has become another whole community for me that's as important to me as the one I reside in for most of the year. I've written a little about some of the interesting places I've found there but what makes it most interesting, because it involves my heart, are the people I've come to call friends there.

On my first foray into independent travel I "accidentally" happened upon Bagnoregio, near Orvieto, looking for an inexpensive house to rent for a couple of weeks. The owner seemed very friendly during our emails and wouldn't even take a deposit for the rental before I arrived. "You will pay when you are here, at the end" he said. And when I finally found the village of Bagnoregio, over a two hour drive from the Rome airport, after dark, he was at the gas station to meet me and take me "home". It's a good thing, too because if you didn't know where it was you'd never find the place. We drove into the valley, an agriculturally protected area where generations of farmers have made modest livings. His little vacation rental sat high up on a hill, the driveway at a 45 degree angle. Carlo had built the little tuffa stone structure by himself, with cotto flooring, a large great room/kitchen, big bathroom and good sized bedroom. The view, all 360 degrees of it, came with the property!

Carlo, as it turned out, migrated to Italy with his wife Utah, from Germany. when they were just a young couple. They found an Italian program that allowed them to become farmers for a very small price. They consequently raised their three children on the farm, which has acres of woods, several hundred olive trees and produces honey. This family was very kind and generous with me, inviting me to their evening meals and events with their extended family and friends. Carlo became a good friend to me, introducing me around town to other locals who might also befriend me. He introduced me to an old farmer who wanted to sell his two acres of land in the valley for a ridiculously small price. I couldn't resist and then Carlo helped walk me through the process of purchasing the property. Without his help I couldn't have navigated the sale. (Of course, he also thinks this gives him license to criticize my pathetic Italian language skills)!

If I needed to be picked up from the train station or needed help translating something Carlo was always available. He introduced me to some of the ex-pats and foreign property owners, too, so my circle of friends widened.

A big, curly haired, round faced man, Carlo puts on a good macho front. But he is much more than a farmer, having created a business renting vacation homes, restoring and managing properties for folks, as well as doing landscape architecture. He's loud, he eats too much, enjoys his grappa and likes to argue with the men of the town. He won't do business with anyone who has betrayed his trust or that of a friend's. And he knows every bit of gossip in town. As soon as I arrive in town we go have lunch and he lets me know who has died, who has married, who is sleeping with whom, what happened to this piece of property or that business. It's just like going to visit my sister in our home town.

This is just one of the reasons I am so attached to my Italian community. And out of necessity I found I had to create some way to continue visiting this lovely landscape. As we all know necessity is "the mother of invention" so out of this little story I created the small group tour business, italianexcursion.com. It was the best way I could find to support my travel habit. And it's such fun for me to share the many hidden treasures that are off the beaten track and away from large crowds of tourists. There are so many out of the way spots in Umbria and Tuscany that folks never see. Then there is the whole region of northern Lazio that so undiscovered.

I have made many more friends in my little corner of paradise.....and will introduce you to them as I continue to share my love of travel in these areas.

Ciao,
Cheryl

2008-05-09T18:29:00.000-07:00

My favorite travel topic

2008-05-09T11:48:00.000-07:00

Salve, amice! So glad you could join me to share one of my favorite travel topics - Italy! To some this will seem like "more of the same" but I tend to spend time in less traveled areas of this country. Of course the big cities aren't crowded with tourists for nothing. There are lovely treasures there, as well. But that is easily accessed and extensively written about so I will keep to the backroads and uncover little gems that most have missed.

I am currently most interested in the tri-corner area of southern Tuscany/western Umbria/northern Lazio. The food and wine in this area vary from region to region so there is a wide variety of cooking style and grape varietals. Customs are a bit different regionally, too, but what I like most is that in the back country things aren't always so progressive. People do things in the old ways like their grandparents and ancestors did them.

On my last trip, in April, I was fortunate enough to discover a man near Orvieto, one of my favorite hilltowns, who makes cheese in the old way, all by hand, with no modern machinery. Another amazing discovery about 40 miles south of there was an etruscan burial site where no other tourists or people visited but our group. It was one of the ancient towns where Romans had relocated the Falari after conquering their homeland, now known as Civita Castellana. This area is rich in history and cultures that are long gone from the current landscape but have left behind beautiful remnants of their civilization.

Join me later for more wanderings in Italy.........
Ciao,
Cheryl